Download Ice Climbing Routes in British Columbia: Seymour, Grouse Mtn, Whistler, Pemberton, Joffre and more Lecture notes Construction in PDF only on Docsity!
New Ice Climbs in SW BC Version 12.
Last Updated December, 2017
(more or less in guidebook order)
This is a listing of all new or newly reported ice and mixed routes (excluding fully alpine climbs) climbed and described since the publication of West Coast Ice’s second edition. Every year there are some unreported new routes which get included here later on when they are described to us. Info on 2004-2005 and 2005-2006 climbs was compiled primarily by Don Serl and Adrian Burke from reports made on westcoastice.com and cascadeclimbers.com; information on more recent climbs has been compiled by Adrian Burke and Drew Brayshaw. You are welcome to print this info and tuck it into your copy of West Coast Ice until such time as we get a third edition published!
To save on space the incomplete listing of routes in the Okanagan, Kamloops and Wells Gray areas listed in previous updates has been dropped. The only area with climbs not included in the West Coast Ice guidebook included in this update is the Princeton-Keremeos corridor. South- central BC from the US border to Wells Gray to Revelstoke has enough routes that it would be best served by its own, separate, comprehensive guidebook.
MOUNT SEYMOUR:
Unnamed Routes 25-30m WI3-3+ and mixed.
At least two unnamed half pitch routes were climbed on the east and southeast faces of Pump Peak on Mt Seymour during a protracted spell of good weather in January 2007. One of the routes, on the SE face (Ian Bennett and Robb Priestley) had previously been climbed with rock pro (Andrei Mecl) and featured some mixed climbing, while the other one, on the east face consisted of two short ice pillars linked by a snow ramp (Jordan Peters and Steven Harng). Both routes featured ice formed from prolonged sunshine melting a deep snowpack on the summit above the cliffs, and may not form regularly. Pickets, bollards etc required for top anchors, or dig to find buried trees.
GROUSE MOUNTAIN:
Royal Flush (incomplete) 100m WI4- first two pitches Jordan Peters & Steven Harng spring 2005
This route is on the lower flanks of Crown Mountain rising out of Hanes Creek valley, left of the Crater Couloir, and is approached from the Grouse ski area on snowshoes or skis, contouring over Dam Mtn and dropping down into Crown Pass (avvy hazard) and thence down Hanes Valley to the climb. Jordan and Steve climbed two pitches at WI3 and 3+/4- up the lower gully system, to a widening bowl, before being flushed by incessant spindrift. The headwall above the bowl they reached looks to have several steep, hard pitches up to the shoulder of Crown below the Crater Rim. Subsequent ascents haven’t found enough ice to repeat even the opening pitches,
and the ever-present threat of someone from NSR telling you the area is “closed” is also an issue if conditions are at all good.
The Crater Couloir itself is more of an alpine climb up a big avalanche gully, but in the right early season conditions can have a 40 m WI2 pitch at the base. Later in the season it is covered in avvy debris. Higher up where the gully forks, go right to gain the summit ridge.
SQUAMISH – MURRIN AREA (PET WALL)
Sorry Rolf 15 m M7. Paul McSorley, Tim Stephens 2009. Bolts and some gear lead to a smear out to the right of the summer line Czech It Out. The name refers to Rolf Rybak, whose bolted line it is. This may be the mixed version of the obscure line detailed below, which reportedly has been climbed as a pure ice line, although the details are scanty
An unnamed route (sounds like near the summer line of Czech It Out, which is often wet) was climbed in the early 2010s to give a 15m WI4 and an old top anchor was replaced. Probably/possibly previously climbed but not reported.
MURRIN AREA (Valley of Shaddai)
Kleptomaniac 45m M6 WI4+/5 R Patrick Delany and Kai Hirvonen; January 14, 2005
A fine mixed climb in the Valley of Shaddai (east of Murrin Park), immediately right of Glenn Payan’s summer rock-lines, Cliptomaniac and Just Blessed. Climbed in 2 pitches, the first 20m M4R: thin ice and chimneying in a vertical slot with no real pro (a knifeblade low down, maybe a short stubbie), to a great rock-pro cave belay behind a dagger. The 25m second pitch features drytooling and handjams in a crack with good rock pro to 2 bolts and the dagger, which is WI4+/5 to the top.
Bull in a China Shop 60m WI4+ Patrick Delany and Kai Hirvonen; January 15, 2005
Directly across the valley from Kleptomaniac. Climbed in 3 short pitches: P1 is 25m WI3+/4 to a ledge; P2 is 20m WI4/4+; P3 is a 15m WI3 in the forest above.
Indian Canyon – Nintendo Area
This crag has been home for years to a “wild windblown curtain hanging from the roof”. Dubbed Nintendo by Serl, it was finally climbed by Damien Kelly and Peder Ourom in 1996 to give Nintendo 64 , 30 m WI5/5+ depending on thinness and tenuousity of the curtain.
In addition to the main route, there are a couple of other routes on the same bluff, mostly developed by Peter Watson; the ice grades are dependent on the degree of ice formation, all about 30 m long. From left to right along the cliff they are:
Cambodian Cowgirl WI4 M7 150m. Paul McSorley, Tim Stephens, Jia Condon and Conny Amelunxen, 2010.
This route is more or less under the Gondola line. Four pitches lead to the summer rock climbing area of the Overlook (see McLane guide pp. 166-167).
P1 M4 50m P2 easy mixed 30m P3 burly M7 3bolts quality 30m P4 incredible WI4 M6 (a few pins) in a corner! 40m (This last pitch is the Barley/Fantini route Curiously Old Fashioned , summer 10a)
Rap Reverse Cowgirl to get down the top pitch and walk off on the Overlook trail from there.
BEHIND THE CHIEF- OLESEN CREEK
Unnamed 30m WI3+ FRA Peter Watson and Patrick ( last name?) January 2007.
Several hundred meters left (north) of A Scottish Tale, and climbed by a couple of lost climbers, is this short smear. Rappel from V-thread anchor to descend.
Several of the Olesen Creek routes came in early and stayed around for a long time (several months) in 2016-2017. AST saw regular traffic, and went from thin early season conditions to a beat-out snow slog with a couple ice pitches up high by the time the season finished. Some climbers even avoided the bushwack approach by taking the gondola up, traversing to the top of AST, and rapping in. The Hadrian’s Wall finish out to the right of AST on the headwall saw a couple ascents too (including a possible variation finish), although it is slower to form than AST and took a couple weeks after AST came in before it was climbable.
The Dream came in in good shape and got a new finishing pitch (Jia Condon, Jason Kruk, Tony Richardson), located after a short traverse from the top of the route as described in WCI volume
- This finishing pitch (“a half pitch of so, WI 3 or 4”) allows for climbers to walk off via the cattle trail to the gondola rather than rap back down the route.
THE CHIEF:
In addition to the listed routes, a couple of short things with thin ice (WI3/4 and mixed) have been done off various parts of the Backside trail, including in the vicinity of the tunnel-under chockstone at the base of Heliopolis, and in the vicinity of White Cliff. Climbs in the vicinity of the Shannon Ck road are described in that section.
Upper Black Dyke c.200m 5.10 M6/7 R? Jim Martinello and Damien Kelly Dec 2008
A long eyed problem finally climbed. The first two pitches were entirely rock, and climbed in rock shoes, then the final two pitches consisted of mixed climbing, verglas and thin ice with pro ranging from decent to nonexistant – summer bolts were sometimes buried under ice. Pins, cams
and stubbies were all used where possible. Further bolts added to the summer route during 2009 may or may not facilitate repeat ascents.
The Ultimate Ultimate Everything WI4R 9 pitches FA January 11, 2017 Jia Condon, Paul McSorley, Jason Kruk & Tony Richardson. UUE climbs roughly the line of the rock climb Ultimate Everything, with some variations. The route was approached on the trail right of the Apron, up to Broadway. The first pitch climbed a pitch of thin ice off Broadway, climbers left of the topout of Diedre. This is a 5.9 pitch sometimes used as a Boomstick Crack bypass/alternate in the summer. Two more, easier pitches lead to the forested terraces and the trail that leads to Ultimate Everything. Once across the gully, ice started just right of the UE start at the base of the corner and merged mid pitch with the UE corners. The next two pitches went up the UE corners, with some meandering, then pitch 5 was a long ice pitch. Pitch 6 was climbed with no rope. Pitch 7 was WI4R. Pitch 8 continued on easier ground to one short final step left of the UE finish which was 4th classed. Overall, there was not really much mixed climbing to speak of on the route, with some turf but mostly ice, and as Paul said, “screws on every pitch!”. The formation of the climb was somewhat unusual, with heavy snowfall followed by reliable melt-freeze cycles and cold nights during the shortest days of the year. The combination of a large snowpack on top of Second Summit to feed the route, and melt-freeze cycles to send pulses of water down the climb, are probably both required: past winters with less snow but colder temperatures have not seen a similar ice buildup.
In a bravura display, the second ascent of UUE was a team solo (MA Leclerc and L Lindic) that descended the backside and continued up The Dream for “a very Squamonix outing”.
SLHANY (aka The Squaw)
Two Minutes for Hooking c. 180 m M5 WI4 Andrew Boyd and Derek Flett 2008-
This climb is on the far left (north) side of Slhany, well left of rock routes in the Straight Outta Squampton area and even left of the prominent giant arête of The Barbarian. Look for a prominent thin ice streak visible from Valleycliffe area. Approach by thrashing straight up from near the Clean Boulders. Climb several pitches of thin ice and traditionally protected mixed climbing to the top of the wall.
SQUAMISH RIVER - WEST SIDE: (across from Squamish townsite, boat required)
Great Falls Sip & Dip Lounge 95m WI2 Ken Glover, Kelly Franz Dec 09
This is to the right (north) of Echo Magic (the long WI4 in the Monmouth Creek canyon) and between the two sets of hydro lines and is visible from the Wal-Mart area of town looking west. Canoe across the river and bushwack uphill for an hour or so to the route, which consisted of mostly “thick” ice (13-16cm+). One 70m simulclimb and then a 25m finishing pitch. Two raps down. Old rock anchors on the cliff indicate probable previous summertime activity which may help to locate this climb in the future.
SPIRIT BEAR MISCELLANEOUS CLIMBS:
100m below the Right Side is a cliff band with a few ice strips, the Preston-Stanhope route is the most prominent: WI4 15m - FA: Hannah Preston, Will Stanhope Jan ’17.
75 meters above the Right Side Crag is Ginger Gully 30m WI3 FA: Sebastien De la Rosa, Jason Ammerlaan, Paul McSorley Dec.
Spirit Bear Left Side (left to right)
- Two Strokes For Some Folks 30m WI 4+ R FA: Sebastien De La Rosa, Jason Ammerlaan Jan 2017
- Squamish Groomjob 20m M8 4 bolts to thin ice Paul McSorley, Jia Condon, Monte Johnston Jan ‘
- The Groper 15m M5 WI 5 6 bolts (all bolted, maybe one screw for the top) Jia Condon, Paul, McSorley, Monte Johnston Jan ‘
- Golden Boy WI 4 15m Paul McSorley, Jia Condon Jan ’
Spirit Bear Right Side:
- WI 2 10m Jia Condon Solo Jan ‘
- Unnamed WI 3+ 15m Monte Johnston, J. Condon, P. McSorley Jan ‘
- WI Roofs 15m TR Tony Richardson, Kathia Voyeur, Julian Kenchenten Jan ‘
- Unnamed WI 4 15m Jason Ammerlaan, Sebastien De La Rosa, Paul McSorley Dec. 2016
- Unnamed WI 5 15m Paul McSorley, Andrew Rennie Jan 2016. Thin curtain of bad ice
- Husqvarna Hummer M7 15 m 10 bolts Paul McSorley, Jia Condon
Some of the Spirit Bear routes have bolted stations and/or rap stations while others have your standard Squamish tree anchor.
ICEBOX CANYON: this area is near the summer crag of the Longhouse, and if you’ve climbed at the Longhouse you probably have seen this feature and wondered if it freezes up in there in winter. Walk in from Shannon Ck FSR or grunt up the Slhany descent trail past the Pox Wall and so on. There are a dozen or so routes or variations all in the 20 m to 40 m range
Icebox Canyon notable routes:
Cherry Garcia WI4 – P. McSorley and Chris Atkinson, Dec 2013 Just to the Right – WI3+ - McSorley and Atkinson, Dec 2013 Depends-a-lot Falls, WI4. Paul McSorley, solo Feb 2014. The main flow in the canyon. Guides Day Off WI4+ R/X 18 m Sam Eastman 2016.
In general, first ascents in the Icebox have been by Chris Atkinson, Paul McSorley, Tony
Richardson, Jason Kruk, Sebastien De La Rosa, Jia Condon, and Sam Eastman
Pretty much every leadable smear has been led or soloed and the most obvious mixed features have been climbed as well, although some mixed lines not leadable on gear have been TR-only ascents. Paul says “let’s not turn this beautiful canyon into another bullshit M-crag with seasonally dependent bolts and chip marks”.
Goldie Lox Falls WI3/3+ 90 m. Sebastian de la Rosa and partner Dec 2013. Above the Longhouse parking on the Shannon Creek FSR, between 7 km and 8 km. Walk back 400 m and bushwack 20 minutes up to the ice. An approach WI2 pitch leads to three full pitch independent flows to finish, with a choice of grade; the central line is the steepest, but all were climbed.
Back to the Future 120m of ice WI 4 Tony Richardson Paul McSorley January 2015. This route can be hard to find because it cannot be seen from the road. Park at the gate at 9 km and walk back down the road 100 m. Scramble up the road cut bluffs into the forest via a short left facing vegetated corner system and continue up the vage drainage above until you reach the first pitch of ice. There are 3 pitches: 30 m WI3, 60 m WI4 up a short steep narrow column to a easier runnel above, and 30 m WI3 on a wider flow to the top. Rap the route from trees and Abalakovs.
McFly 10 m WI3 Tony Richardson Paul McSorley Jan 2015. Literally roadside ice just before the 9 km gate. You can park your truck next to the climb and belay from the bumper, tailgate, or even from your heated seat with the door open if you don’t mind the threat of icefall breaking your windshield.
BLUEBERRY BOX CANYON WI 3, 5 pitches Paul McSorley, Jia Condon, Tony Richardson Jan 2016 (possibly earlier) About 4-5 pitches up to WI 3 and several shorter steps This nice canyon forms the far left (north) edge of the same escarpment that hosts AST et al. and is about 1 km northeast of AST. It is equipped with fixed hardware for a summer descent; 10 raps up to 35m get you down this slot. In winter it can suffer from open pools or too much snow and so a narrow range of conditions is optimal for the ice ascent.. Approach: Either from below via Oleson Creek headwaters (similar but worse to the AST approach) or the recommended approach, from the top down (near 9.6 km opposite a prominent white cliff with large boulders) by crashing in 100m NW to a creek which is followed to the rim of the canyon. It is also possible to enter via the clearcuts (around km 8) but expect bush...
GONDOLA TOP STATION AREA Several very thin ice and mixed routes were TR’ed on Ultraviolet Cliff (aka White Cliff) behind the Gondola top station during December 2016. They face south and so get fried by winter sunshine in the afternoon, hence said to be best on cloudy days. This area was said to be “falling apart” by multiple parties, but still had several climbers visit it over three or four weeks. A WI half-pitch flow at the right end saw a lead (Kris Wild and Katy Holm) but several of the leaning 5.10 and 5.11 cracks were full of weepy ice and saw TR action and maybe even a lead or two (unconfirmed) before melting out.
You can also walk downstream 100 m or so from the base of Gertrude and up Ring Creek itself the same distance to Ring Creek Falls 10m-15m WI2 to 2+, (FRA: Webb, Brayshaw, Feb 2014) which is a small, broad curtain of ice offering good practice lines with no objective hazard.
SQUAMISH VALLEY ROAD
Stumped WI3R 25m FRA Dustin Hines, Jason Wheeler Dec 2008 About 2km from the Ashlu bridge, near the end of pavement. A 25m flow of rotten ice with a rotten stump anchor underneath the power line, east of the road. Expect queues in future.
Icecap Peak – East Face, 1300m WI4 M4. Conny Amelunxen and Tennessee Trent, Feb. 2014. This route faces the Squamish River across the valley from Vulcan’s Thumb and requires a canoe crossing of the river during low-snow conditions or when the road is plowed for logging. It rarely forms completely. The first ascent took place during a long cold snap with high snowline that also saw Shannon Falls briefly climbable. The climb takes a long gully through the lower part of the face and climbs steppy terrain above all the way to the summit ridge, with a total elevation gain of 1700 m. There were seven belayed pitches and another 8 simulclimbed pitches plus much unroped climbing, and the route required a bivy on the FA. Some of the mixed low on the route may have edged towards M5 (“M for moss”) difficulty.
At least one other three to four pitch WI4 was done in the Ashlu area by Dale Caldwell and partner, with a second similar climb (possibly unclimbed) reported nearby. From context, this might be the lower Madden Falls area, or Sigurd Falls, but further details are lacking at this point.
WHISTLER – CAL-CHEAK/BRANDYWINE FALLS:
In addition to Moaning Tree Wall, there is a short (10m) unnamed wall in the trees about halfway from Moaning Tree to the bungee bridge that has WI2, 3 and 4 lines on it which can be climbed when Moaning Tree is busy. FAs unknown, probably early 2000s.
There were a couple lines in east of the road at about 1km in from the highway, in the basalt gorge below Brandywine Falls, with lots of people on them when they formed (winter 05-06, and again in 2014 and 2016). Access by crossing the bungee bridge and rapping in. Pretty much all TR'ing, as there is little potential for pro in the chandeliered upper sections, except for:
Pick Your Poison WI5/6 40m ish. Matt Maddaloni, Nathan Kuthakas 2014. Two steep pillars with a ledge/smear of thin ice in the middle and “pro just OK and possibly capable of stopping a ground fall”, hence the split grade.
100% Proof M10 Tim Emmett and Jamie Finlayson Dec 2013. Pro: lots of bolts. This mixed climb in the Brandywine lava cave amphitheatre runs to the right of Brandywine Falls through icicle-fringed basalt roofs and is said to be a great warmup for Helmcken Falls if you aspire to upside-down frozen basalt and spray ice. It’s also now the finishing pitch of the following:
Brandywine Falls WI5 or WI 6 M10 Tim Emmett and Jamie Finlayson Dec 2016. 80 m, three pitches. P1: climb 30 m or so of vertical spray-ice to a cave belay, right of the falls (given WI6; possibly WI5, but vertical with minimal ability to take screws). P2: climb bolted M9 through roofs, trending left to a cave belay close to the falls. P3: finish up 100% Proof to top out at big tree right of and above the top of the waterfall. Best to rap in and climb out.
WHISTLER – SOO RIVER ROAD:
Quicky 45m WI4+ Bruce Kay, Craig McGee Feb. 08.
Winter plowing of the Soo River Road allowed Bruce and Craig to access this climb, on a north- facing bluff at c. 5km (across the Soo River from Soo Bluffs). Two sections of ice with a two- bolt thin ice/mossy traverse between them; the second bolt was found in situ and presumed to mark the highpoint of a previous unsuccessful attempt.
WHISTLER – WEDGE WOODS
The popular single pitch Mystery Roach Hotel 30m WI4 was off limits for construction at the Wedge Woods estate in winter 2013-2014. The construction is over, but the access is now gated. Walking in from the new Wedgemount Lake trail parking is probably the best bet access-wise. Mixed lines (at least two) have been done to both sides of the main MRH ice flow, with the left- hand one more often being mostly ice and varying from WI4 when icy to M6ish when rocky, while the right-hand line is more often mostly rock, and reportedly harder than its neighbours.
WEDGE POWERHOUSE IPP ROAD
The following info is verbatim from Jason Kruk and will be expanded with individual route names, grades and lengths as it becomes available. Until then, it sounds like a very good area to explore if you have a sled, like to ski or high snowlines permit walking access
“ Folks keen on ice but not on driving could consider the routes myself and friends have climbed over the season above the new Wedge IPP road. We've climbed most of the obvious lines above the power station, about half a dozen spread across half a km of forest. Some good pitches up to WI4+. Climbs are north facing at ~1300m elevation. 1-2 hrs skinning approach or 10 mins with a machine. Two of the lines are two pitches but most are quality single pitches. Been up there with Seb de la Rosa and his friend Sean, Skylar Flavelle, Elise Aspa, and Tlell the dog. Climbs are visible driving southbound and worth a visit.”
WEDGEMOUNT LAKE HUT AREA:
In addition to Keener (WCI p.58), the following new routes have been done:
Global Warming WI4 70m Bill Ferguson, Guy Wigham March 2015. An ice-choked chimney on a bluff directly above the lake, near the hut. 50m and 20m pitches with the crux a 10m vertical pillar. Bring rock gear for both the climb and the intermediate belay. One rap off on double 70s, or walk off around the bluffs and down (much longer). Climbed at the end of a long snowless snap, in higher-snow years the top out may be impossible due to snow.
reminiscent of Weeping Wall in the Rockies. The climbing looks thin from far away but it is not as bad as it looks. Park at the end of the road at the east end of Xit’olacw where the old logging road continues towards the climbs. Be discrete and careful with your parking so as to avoid creating an access issue with the locals. Head up to Paid or Laid, then continue upward with easy going on the ridge left (west) of the gully. (The gully itself is a major thrash.) When directly across from the route rap 60m to gully.
The climb consists of three 55m pitches, first Grade 3, then 3+, then 4+, starting on the right and ending on the left. Rap from V-threads and head home down the gully. Bring one or two stubbies.
Because of lack of information, Paid or Laid and Ten Stitches from Whistler were not very specifically described in the 2005 second edition of West Coast Ice. This can now be remedied. Paid or Laid is the lowest, rightmost of the three routes east of Xit’olacw. The upper pitches lie (as noted in the guide) in the corner of a beautiful – and characteristic - rock amphitheatre, with an impressive vertical rock wall on the left and overhangs dripping with icicles on the right. Ten Stitches... is the middle route, lower-angled and less well defined, but easily placed by the series of unclimbed hanging daggers above.
Nocturnal Emission came in nicely for a short time, and is best approached via a logging spur above Hwy 99 at the Birkenhead bridge 9km E of Mt Currie. Walk the road about 20 minutes, then break back right through open forest and up scree. One hour.
Lots of ice formed in January 2005, enabling more exact clarification of positions and mileages of seldom-formed routes along the D’Arcy road than was presented in WCI. Mileages are from the railway crossing at the north end of Mount Currie.
Rusty: 4.5km; on east-facing slope above Owl Creek.
Roadside Attraction: In alcove on right of the road (when Northbound) 500m beyond railway crossing at 7km. Fat and busy in 08-09 with many possible lines. Recent (2014-2015) logging and powerline clearing has eased the access to this climb somewhat. Cross the tracks at 7 km and go past the gravel road signed YEX’WLOA to the left just beyond. 400m past that, pull over at a pullout on the right side of the road. You can see the ice from here if you cross the road and look uphill. Hike up a new logging road for 10 minutes until under the powerlines, then follow a spur south until right below the ice. 3 minutes of steep bushwacking leads to the climb.
Deception: on west side at about 9.5km. Visible from the road heading south, not so easy heading north. Requires wading across the river or crossing on fallen logs.
Candlewax: at 9.8 km; south-facing; on right side of bluff topped by power pylon
Other new routes in the Birken-D’arcy corridor include:
Drive-by Shooting: 30m M8. Jayson Green & Gavin Duffell sometime in 2008.
100m down the tracks from Roadside Attraction. Climb 15m of WI2 to a two-bolt anchor, then up steeply overhanging rock past 5 bolts with fixed draws to a final dagger. Chain anchor, lower off. As of 2012-2013 the fixed draws are reported to be in poor shape so plan on bringing your own and doing some maintenance.
A Journey 110m WI3 Andrew Rennie and Don Serl; January 8, 2005
A long journey (with 900m elevation gain) up the gully right of The Plum , passing Rocky and Bullwinkle on the way. The journey begins with a single step, 20m of Grade 2 which was soloed, followed by another 20 minutes of snow-trudging. The main flow gives beautiful 55m and 35m Grade 3 pitches. Rap from trees on climber's right.
Unknown WI4 120 m FA?
Breakfast Ice WI3 30m Priti Wright and Jeff Wright Feb 20/ About 1 km north of PC Valentine, and roughly the same distance south of Place Creek Falls, Priti and Jeff were the first to report climbing a 3-pitch WI4 (first pitch 35 mWI3+, second pitch 45 m WI2 rambling, third pitch 30 m headwall with variations WI4- to 4+). Park as for Plum/PCV and follow the powerlines north past a swamp until the climb is visible on the right, or walk in directly from the D’arcy road across a field. The climb had been around since January, and Prit and Jeff found an old sling at the top of the first pitch, indicating an earlier ascent. Breakfast Ice is an independent half-pitch flow on the right, which they found no anchor in place on and hence named, as it may have been a first ascent.
Place Creek Falls WI4 ~200m Russell March, Miles Quesnel, and Nick Ranicar; January 9,
2005
A high-volume, rambling waterfall which may not always be frozen. Fun when it is. P1 50m: Grade 3 with a 15m Grade 4 step at the top. P2, P3, and P4: all about 40m, meandering Grade 2 with Grade 3 steps. Park at railway crossing a kilometre west of Gates Lake [20km]. Walk the railway line about 200m east, then cut across 2 Hydro cutlines and up the hill to the falls. (Same access as Place Glacier trail.)
BIRKENHEAD LAKE
Second hand, unconfirmed info indicates the Flett brothers walked down Birkenhead Lake for a few km from the provincial park campground at the north end and climbed a multipitch ice route in a gully coming off Mt John Decker in winter 08-09. Previous attempts on this line indicate it’s probably at least WI4 and can have serious avvy hazard under some snow conditions. More accurate details will be posted as they become available.
White helping out on earlier missions and Craig power-drilling the crux bolts on lead on p2. A couple A0 moves off bolts on the WI5 M6 crux pitch during the complete ascent mean the climb still waits for a free ascent.
Both routes may be escaped right at their tops via an avalanche-prone ledge (The Traverse of the Idiots) or continued up the upper buttress above Rhapsody in Floyd until a descent is possible north down easier snowy terrain (still with avvy hazard) back down to the valley bottom).
Recent rock route development on this buttress (starting in summers 2011 and 2012) may offer the possibility of a quicker descent.
CERISE CREEK – KEITH’S HUT AREA
Back in November 2006, Peter Watson and partner found two ice climbs on the toe of the buttress at the base of the east ridge of Joffre, about 1 km west of the hut. Best accessed from the summer trail just after the creek crossing, as for alpine routes like Twisting Couloir or Central Couloir. Hike up the east side of the glacier drainage on moraines to reach the buttress. Under the right early season conditions it forms up a wide array of ice lines. The two routes climbed were the steepest on offer and were both about two pitches, WI3 and WI3+ respectively. This is probably a “sunny-days-with-cold-nights-in-late-fall” climbing area only, similar to ice climbs in the Cheam Range. There is a lot more room for 1-2 pitch WI2-3 climbing here. Later on in the year or in snowier autumns, the whole cliffs gets buried under snow and the climbs vanish under the white pillows.
STEEP CREEK- DARKSIDE LAKE
This popular skiing area is actually at Duffy Lake, halfway from Mt Currie to Lillooet and only about 15km west of Isodorth and Belmore (Lillooet area – Duffy Lk chapter). Approach from Beeker’s memorial hut across Darkside Lake to the granite headwall below Darkside Peak where there are reportedly two ice lines on gaps in the headwall.
Zeppelin on the Darkside 25m WI3+. Craig Beaumier and Sean Draper February 2012.
This is the lefthand of the two ice lines. A wide curtain, starting as a snowslope and steepening to blue ice, with a variety of possible lines – the FA line was just right of centre. Descend on rappel. This is a very long approach to a very short climb for a single day of cragging, but possibly a nice diversion if already skiing at the hut.
FRASER VALLEY – PITT RIVER:
The Mystic Lake climbs actually lie on the north-facing slopes above the twin lakes at the head of Fish Hatchery Creek, directly east of the logging-camp community of Alvin, not southeast of Remote Peak as reported in WCI. A spur branches right off the Corbold Creek mainline about 2km north out of Alvin, then the desired spurs curl back south in another 1.5km. The lower lake lies at about 850m, roughly 6km up the second spur.
FRASER VALLEY – HIGHWAY 7 - MISSION TO HOPE:
MISSION AREA:
Lost Creek Wall WI 3 20 m January 2017 Russ Shepherd et al (TR only)
There is a lot of ice potential during cold weather up the forested backroads between Golden Ears Park and Agassiz but only a few routes have been reported to date. The Lost Creek Wall is 3 km from pavement on the Lost Creek Forest Service Road, north of Cascade Falls in the Mission-Hatzic area, on the flanks of Mt St Benedict. It can be reached via a half hour walk from where plowed roads end or by a suitably equipped vehicle if snowpack permits. Three separate 20 m thin ice lines were toproped on a roadside bluff with thin ice, good access to the top, and plenty of tree anchors in January 2017. Under the right conditions this might be the closest local ice for much of the Abbotsford and Mission area and deserves to see more traffic. Additional potential lines can be found along the Mt St Benedict trail, particularly on the Murdo Lake headwall, about 2 hrs hike from pavement.
AGASSIZ AREA:
Jailbait 50m WI3 Tyler Linn, Mike Warn & Marc-Andre Leclerc Dec 2008.
High on the east-facing slopes of Mount Woodside, west of Agassiz, lie double waterfalls pouring over a cliffband. Park at the quarry reached off Sutherland Road, west of the prison, and bushwack for an hour or so up the hill, diagonalling left of directly uphill, to reach the climbs. The right-hand line was climbed in a full pitch. The steeper lefthand line remains unclimbed.
OCD Pillar 37m WI4 Marc-Andre Leclerc Dec 2008.
Off Mountain Home Road, SW of downtown in Agassiz, this minor flow forms on the north face of Hopyard Hill. The climb is apparently on Crown land(?) but the approach is across a farmer’s field so ask permission. Rambling seeps lead to a final 10m pillar. Hung around in climbable form for almost two weeks in 08-09 so may form again.
freezing into the ice. A few finger sized nuts or Tricams can supplement ice screw belays with rock gear on this climb, especially if the opening pitches are thin.
Tradewinds 210m WI3 Shaun Neufeld & Drew Brayshaw Dec 2008.
This route is about 100 m right (east) of Spitting Cobra. From the base of Tailwind, walk along the base of the bluffs until on the fresh talus from this intermediate corner, then make a rising traverse to the climb, which takes a series of flows in a less prominent corner further right. Four pitches: 50m WI2 open slab, 55m WI2+, rock corner and chimney with ice and prominent chockstone, to rock belay; 55m WI3 up short pillars, 60m WI2 long angling diagonal ramp. A couple wired nuts and one or two thin pins were used. Rap Abalakovs to belay atop p2, then trees to climbers left, to get down (3 60m rappels plus 30m of steep bushy downclimbing).
AGASSIZ TO HOPE: Orange Pipeline
Frost Heave 40m WI2+ Justin Brown and Drew Brayshaw; November 29, 2006
Park at the gas pipeline crossing on Highway 7 and walk east 200m down the gated road on the North side of the slough. A long low-angle flow is visible on slabs above but has not to date touched down. Starting left of that, climb a short (6-8m) steep wall of thin wet ice (WI2+). Then climb an ice and mixed slab with thin ice, turf and some bare rock (WI2R) to a belay tree on the left at the same height that the main flow dies out. Traversing right to gain the main ice flow looked difficult and Justin bent a pick, ending the attempt to climb higher. A subsequent ascent with less ice described the climb as “frozen moss on a smooth slab” and also retreated below the main ice streak. Descent: walk off to climbers' left down a ramp.
A similar but unclimbed line often forms to the left.
The Family Man 150m WI2+ Mike Warn and Marc-Andre Leclerc December 2008
About halfway from the gas pipeline to the Haig weigh-station, where the highway has river on one side and rock roadcut on the other. Best to park as for Frost Heave and walk east. The climb is a thin dihedral to start, then a long slab/gully leading up into the forest. A couple short steep columns, 5-8m high, were found in the forest above but family commitments did not permit their ascent, hence the name. Abalakov descent. Dinner plates etc. from above should be stopped by the highway barricade – the climb does not directly threaten the highway.
FRASER VALLEY – CHILLIWACK TO HOPE:
Never a Bride Perhaps best climbed in 2 pitches, rather than the 3 noted in the guide.
Decent Divorce WI 4/4+ 60m FRA: David Parker and Lane Brown Jan. 2005, but definitely climbed earlier.
A nice line in the drainage immediately left of Never a Bride (i.e., 2 gullies left of Bridalveil Falls ). Climbed several times, with good reports, in January 2005 – there was an old sling on
top. Approach as for above routes. Low-angle ice over a slab leads 25-30m to a prominent pillar/curtain. Belay in alcove on right. Climb pillar 25-30m and belay in gully below a short WI2 step in the forest. Most easily done as two or three short pitches, but possible in one pitch with 60m ropes. Rap from trees.
Unnamed (Webb-Fox) 4 pitches WI3+ Fern Webb and Eric Fox, January 2005
This is about halfway between Bridalveil Falls to White Wedding (about 200m right/west of Bridalveil Falls) and is a narrow climb partially hidden in the forest. The climb can be seen from Cheam Lake or briefly from the highway if you know where to look. Two pitches of WI3 lead to two more pitches of WI3+. A big landslide came off the ridgeline just right of these falls in Nov 2014; the climb should be unaffected.
Powerhouse Falls 200m WI2/3 Chris Simmons and Kellie McBee; January 14, 2005
Directly behind the power station 9km east of Exit 138 Bridal Falls (2km west of Exit 146 Herrling Island). Short approach up a gravel road immediately east of powerhouse. Two full 50 meter pitches of WI2 or 3, then continue up the gully system ~200m, soloing four more Grade 2 steps.
A large landslide in winter 2004/2005 began something like 1,000m above the highway on an old logging road and ran down to the highway more or less along the same drainage as Piccadilly Circus. This has improved the climb, if possible. 70 m of WI2 leads to a 50 m WI pillar, then more rambling WI2 for another 80 m through a narrow notch to an obvious top out point with frozen log. Rap from here on v-threads. The forest to the right is full of prickly bushes and cliffs and best avoided. It’s also possible to continue up the drainage for hours more on low- angle WI2 with the odd 10m WI3 step to reach the old logging road that the slide started from, 1000 m above the highway. The descent from way up there is reportedly quite unpleasant though.
A more recent landslide in June 2010 did a similar clearing job on the gully with the “unclimbed pillar” immediately left of Piccadilly Circus.
Janice Ales 205m WI3 Graham Rowbotham and Drew Brayshaw Dec 11/2009.
About 500m east of Easy Intro is a prominent north-facing, red cliff with a hanging drip that has never touched down and is easily seen from the highway. This less-prominent route climbs flows at the extreme right edge of the same cliff. 60m WI2, 60m WI2, 60m WI3, and 25m WI2+ take you to the top. Scramble down ramps for a bit to climber’s right, then make three double-rope raps from trees to the base. An old rappel sling was found on the last rap, above a partially-iced cliff that may fill in during longer cold spells.
