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Contextual studies

Students name: Truong Vuong Lan Nhi

Class: Co30 - Gr 2

Lecturer: Victorian Era

1837 - 1901

Victorian Era

Context

The social classes of this era included the Upper class, Middle class, and lower class. The Upper class were landowners and hired lower class workers to work for them, or made investments to create a profit.The Middle class were those who had skilled jobs to support themselves and their families.The Working class consisted of unskilled laborers who worked in brutal and unsanitary conditions (Victorian England Social Hierarchy). They did not have access to clean water and food, education for their children, or proper clothing. Often, they lived on the streets and were far from the work they could get, so they would have to walk to where they needed to get to. Unfortunately, many workers resorted to the use of drugs like opium and alcohol to cope with their hardships (Thomas).The Under class were those who were helpless and depended on the support of others.

working class

Upper class

Context

Victoria was the niece and only

living heir of William IV. She was

crowned queen in 1837 when she

was just 18. At the age of 20, she

married her cousin, Prince Albert of

Saxe-Coburg and Gotha.

After the death of her husband

in 1861, Victorian never got over it

and entered into a state of

permanent mourning – she

famously only wore black until her

death 40 years later. Queen

Victorian withdrew completely from

public life and her popularity started

waning. However, the public

celebration for her son,Edward,

Prince of Wales who survived from

typhoid marked the return of Queen

Victoria to public life. Queen Victoria , watercolour by Julia Abercromby, 1883, after a watercolour by

Heinrich von Angeli; in the National Portrait Gallery, London.

The Queen, 1872. [Queen Victoria]; W. & D. Downey (British, active 1860 - 1920s); England; 1872; Albumen silver print; 9.2 × 6 cm (3 5/8 × 2 3/8 in.); 84.XD.1157.1661; The J. Paul Getty Museum, Los Angeles

Romanticism (1780 AD - 1850 AD)

Art movements

Characteristics:

• Emphasising on emotions
• Power of nature
• Current events
• Lack of unifying style, techniques
• Indigenous culture

Joseph Mallord William Turner, Rain, Steam, and Speed -- The Great Western Railway , oil on canvas, 1844 (National Gallery, London)

Wanderer above the Sea of Fog (1818) – Caspar David Friedrich

The Fighting Temeraire,1839,J. M. W. Turner

Woman Seated on a Bench c.1874,Clade Monet

Moret-sur-Loing 1902,Armand Guillaumin

Art Nouveau ( 1890s- 1910s)

Art movements

• Asymmetrical shapes.
• Extensive use of arches and curved forms.
• Curved glass.
• Curving, plant-like embellishments.
• Mosaics.
• Stained glass.
• Japanese motifs.

Arts in this movement was the introduction of the British

Arts & Crafts movement which was seen as a reaction to

Victorian-era art. Japanese art and wooden black prints

also were the influencer for artists. Art Nouveau can be

found in all types of projects; posters, illustrations, jewelry,

architecture, and interior design.

Characteristics:

F. Champenois Imprimeur-Editeur ,1897,Alfons Mucha

Fashion

Fashion (^) 1830s - 1840s

1830s The silhouette for the woman figure in the 1830s was mostly natural. This ideal silhouette included sloped shoulders, a narrow waist, and a full bust. The clothing helped contribute to the "ideal" figure by revolving around wide skirts that narrowed up to the waist.; as well as using a corset to define the "ideal upper body."

During the 1830s and 1840s, loose dresses were primarily created by layers of petticoats, as opposed to the hemlines of the second half of the 1850s.

1835 British Silk and Wool Evening Dress.

Fashion (^) 1850s

Domed skirts continued to expand. Skirts are flounced (deep frills) and more voluminous , usually in three rows, tightly gathered at the top and crocheted at the bottom. The day dress bodice had inserts on the shoulders and was collected at a slightly lower waist dull point. These bodice were typically hooked to the back and eye-catching, but a new fashion of jacket bodice has also emerged that can be worn on the chemisset with a button on the front. Wide bell or pagoda sleeves were worn over lower sleeves or engaganten made of cotton or linen. The evening dress was cut very low, fell off the shoulders and had short sleeves. With the introduction of the steel cage crinoline in 1856, the skirt was further expanded to a smoother skirt than a petticoat and hoop, with the frills gradually disappearing. Pan turrets were essential for humility in this new fashion. Special clothing fabrics have small pattern prints on most fabrics and finely tuned border prints on the ears. The dress was made with border prints to decorate the flounce, bodice and part of the sleeves.

Fashion 1860s

The dome-shaped silhouette of the previous era changed mid-decade, shifting the emphasis towards the back of the dress. The tight bodices with high necks in daywear continued, but front-button shirts became more popular. Tops emphasized low, sloping shoulders and also had wide, flared sleeves , decorated with white lace collars and cuffs. Material for the wealthy and upper classes was heavy silks in solid colors. Evening dresses had low necklines and short sleeves, and were worn with short gloves or lace or crocheted fingerless mitts.

The John Bright Collection 1863-1865 silk dress

Crochet Mantelet

Fashion 1880s

Dresses of this era had tight bodices, narrow sleeves, and high necklines (a show of modesty characteristic of the Victorian Era). Focus remained on the back of the dress and the bustle came back in an extreme way mid-decade before falling back out of fashion quickly. The corset was still an S-shape, but was emphasized with a lower chest. Choker necklaces and collars became fashionable accessories. It should come as no surprise that the Rational Dress Society was formed in 1881 in opposition to extreme forms of women’s clothing.

Fashion 1890s

In the 1890s in Europe and European-influenced countries, fashionable women's clothing lost some of the luxury of the last few decades.The 1880s were the same as the late 1870s, but the corsets were unabated or even a little stronger. It consisted of a tight body with a collection of skirts, which fell more naturally on the hips and underwear than in the previous year. Every year until it disappeared around 1896 in the mid-1890s. Introduced a mutton sleeve with larger legs. At the same time, in the mid-1990s, the skirt became a nearly bell-shaped line silhouette. A change in attitude towards activities accepted by women is also a bicycle dress. And notable examples such as corsets have made sportswear popular with women. In the late 1890s, the sleeves returned to tighter sleeves with small poufs and frills that covered the shoulders but adapted to the wrists. The skirt is in the shape of a trumpet, tied near the waist and flared just above the knees. The 1890s corset helped define the shape of the immortal hourglass by the artist Charles Dana Gibson. In the late 1890s, corsets stretched, giving women a slightly curved silhouette.