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Ocean Waves
Ocean waves transfer energy, not the water that is involved in the circular motion Ocean waves can be classified by the way in which they form. Ocean waves can be classified by the depth of water in which they move. Ocean waves can be described by their period, wavelength, and height TERM 2
Waves Steepness
DEFINITION 2 If wave steepness ever exceeds a 1:7 ratio, then the wave breaks Wave steepnessis defined as wave height divided by wavelength This is wave height TERM 3
Wave
Period
DEFINITION 3 the time it takes for one wave length to pass a given point The inverse of wave frequency this is wave length Wave period is the time it takes for one full wavelength to pass a given point. TERM 4
Deepest Wave Base
DEFINITION 4 the wave with the longest wavelength has the deepest wave base TERM 5
variables is necessary to determine the speed
of shallow-water waves?
DEFINITION 5 water depth
physical changes that occur to waves as they
move into shallow water
wavelength decreases wave height increases wave steepness increases the waves touch bottom TERM 7
Tsunamis
DEFINITION 7 Tsunami are undetectable by ships in the open ocean. The tsunami warning system uses seismic waves and deep- ocean pressure sensors to detect tsunami. At the coast, a tsunami looks like a suddenly occurring high or low tide, which is why they are misnamed "tidal waves." Tsunami have a very long wavelength, so they travel at very high speeds (equivalent to the speed of a jet airplane). TERM 8
The tides are considered an example of
shallow-water waves because the tidal bulges
have a wavelength that is on the order of
_______________.
DEFINITION 8 thousands of kilometers TERM 9
force of gravity between two bodies
DEFINITION 9 The force of gravity between two bodies decreases as distance increases, increases with an increase in mass, and is most affected by a change in distance TERM 10
forces and tidal bulges
DEFINITION 10 On the side of Earth closest to the Moon, a tidal bulge will form as a result of an excess of gravitational force. On the side of Earth facing away from the Sun, a tidal bulge will form due to an excess of centripetal force. Tidal bulges are produced on both sides of Earth from the Moon and the Sun.
patterns and tidal charts
A tidal day is 24 hours and 50 minutes long. A semidiurnal tidal pattern has two low tides every tidal day. The tidal range is the difference in height between a high tide and a low tide. A mixed tidal pattern has two lows of unequal height and two highs of unequal height every tidal day. A mixed tidal pattern has two lows of unequal height and two highs of unequal height every tidal day. TERM 17
coastal regions and
landforms
DEFINITION 17 the area of a beach above the shoreline is often called the recreational beach. The berm is located in the backshore area. Most of the beach face is exposed during the lowest tides and covered during the highest tides. The beach face is the wet, sloping surface in the foreshore area. The berm is affected by storm waves but is typically dry and relatively flat. TERM 18
results in the accumulation of sand on the
berm, thereby making the berm wider?
DEFINITION 18 a beach dominated by swash higher beach infiltration rates light wave activity (small waves) The conditions that result in the accumulation of sand on the berm include light wave activity (small waves), a beach dominated by swash, and high beach infiltration rates. TERM 19
associated with erosional shores
DEFINITION 19 tectonic activity a coastline with lots of rugged headlands wave-cut benches and marine terraces rocky coasts A coastline with lots of rugged headlands is characteristic of erosional shores. TERM 20
depositional shores
DEFINITION 20 bay-mouth bars the formation of barrier islands high sediment supply a location near a large delta a large sand spit The formation of barrier islands is associated with depositional shores.
related to emerging shorelines
U.S. West Coast tectonic uplift lowering of sea level marine terraces merging shorelines are associated with marine terraces, lowering of sea level, and tectonic uplift, and they occur along the U.S. West Coast. TERM 22
help(s) form a well-developed delta
DEFINITION 22 a large volume river low rates of erosion small wave energy high sediment load high rates of disposition TERM 23
global sea level
DEFINITION 23 Global sea level is affected by the temperature of seawater and the amount of polar ice in ice caps on land. Sea level has risen about 120 meters (400 feet) in the past 18,000 years since the end of the last ice age. TERM 24
beach replenishment
DEFINITION 24 Beach replenishment is expensive because of the huge volume of sand that is necessary to replenish a beach. each nourishment involves dumping sand on the beach to replace lost sand. Beach replenishment is also known as beach nourishment. TERM 25
groins
DEFINITION 25 Groins can be constructed out of large blocky rocky material (rip-rap) or of sturdy wood pilings. Groins can be singular or many. actually, groins trap sand on theirupstreamside and cause erosion on theirdownstreamside.
coastal wetlands
coastal wetlands are good at cleansing polluted water of agricultural runoff, toxins, and other pollutants. Mangrove swamps are a type of coastal wetland that can protect shorelines from erosion. Scientists estimate that globally, 50% of all coastal wetlands have disappeared in the past century. Coastal wetlands often serve as important nursery areas for many species of fish. TERM 32
Mediterranean Sea
DEFINITION 32 evaporation in the arid eastern part of the Mediterranean Sea causes an inward surface flow at the Strait of Gibraltar. Mediterranean Sea is actually a number of smaller seas connected by narrow necks of water into one larger sea. The warm, salty, and dense Mediterranean Intermediate Water flows out as a subsurface flow over the Gibraltar Sill and into the Atlantic Ocean. Thick salt deposits on the floor of the Mediterranean Sea suggest that it completely dried up about 6 million years ago. the Mediterranean Sea is one of the few inland seas in the world that is underlain by oceanic crust TERM 33
World Hearth Organization's definition of
marine pollution?
DEFINITION 33 Marine pollution is human-made. Marine pollution results or is likely to result in harmful effects to marine life. Marine pollution can be a substance or a form of energy. Marine pollution cannot be natural (there is no such thing as natural pollution). TERM 34
Based on the World Health Organization's
definition of marine pollution, which of the
following is/are considered to be a form of
marine pollution?
DEFINITION 34 biodegradable food items dumped overboard from a cruise ship sound from cargo ships traversing the ocean warmer-than-normal water created by outflow from a coastal power plant raw sewage released onto the floor of the deep ocean This is a natural occurrence and thus not considered a form of marine pollution. TERM 35
which is the most commonly used for
determining the concentration of pollutants
that negatively affect the living resources of
the ocean?
DEFINITION 35 death of more than 50% of a sample population following exposure to a known pollutant The standard laboratory bioassay is the most widely used technique for determining the concentration of pollutants that negatively affect the living resources of the ocean. This technique involves determining the concentration of a pollutant that causes 50% mortality amongst test organisms.
Age of Discovery in Europe
Ferdinand Magellan's crew completed the first circumnavigation of the globe. Christopher Columbus made several trips across the Atlantic and discovered a "new world." TERM 37
In science, which one of the following would
be considered an observation?
DEFINITION 37 Waves are seen to approach the beach at an angle. TERM 38
would best describe the principal goal of
science?
DEFINITION 38 to explain the causes and effects of observable natural phenomena Science uses observations to explain cause and effect in the physical world and make successful predictions. TERM 39
formation of a density-stratified Earth
DEFINITION 39 Molten material will rise if it is less dense than the surrounding material. Molten material will sink if it is more dense than the surrounding material. Earth is layered based on density, with the highest-density material located at the deepest depths beneath Earth's surface. Denser material sinks; less dense material rises. TERM 40
internal structure of Earth
DEFINITION 40 The lithosphere of Earth is made of both mantle and crust. earth's internal layers can be described by their composition or by their physical properties. There are two independent ways to describe the internal layers of Earth.
