Download Troubling Thirties - Dress Codes American Clothes in the Twentieth Century | TH 205 and more Exams Theatre in PDF only on Docsity!
The Troubling Thirties: 1930-1939 (the 30s) 1930-1939: Body Shape Ideal Male Body Shape: mature male, larger chest, broader shoulders – decline of the youth Ideal Female Body Shape: new feminine idea, narrow hip, natural waist – tomboy gone 1930-1939: Clothes Terms Cowl ( F) – hood usually attached to a monk’s robe, imitated in fashion as soft-fold drape around the neck Dolman Sleeve ( F) – a sleeve cut in one piece with the bodice Snood (F) – a coarse net worn on the back of the head to hold the hair, sometimes worn with a tiny hat attached. Lastex (G) – elasticized fiber created from a rubber core around which other textile yards are wound. Aloha Shirt (M) – brightly coloured print that was a copy of the Hawaiian man’s shirt with a pattern of tropical leaves and flowers. Bermuda Shorts (M) – knee-length shorts for summer sportswear originating in the tropical resorts of Bermuda Dinner Jacket (M) – (formerly ‘tuxedo’) an evening jacket for semi-formal or formal occasions Indian Madras (M) – a plain-weave cotton or blended fabric with vividly dyed checks used for shirts and sportswear Loafers (M) – moccasin style slip-on shoe. Came from Norway. Panama Hat (M) – soft straw hat made of plaited fibers first brought by sailors from the port of Panama. Porkpie Hat (M) – a low-crowned, shape squared-off crown with a dish-like crease in the top. Parka (M) – heavy outdoors jacket with a hood, cotton or wool and processed for water repellency. 1930-1939: Visuals Halter-Neckline (F) – high in the neck at the center front, with a strap or band going around the neck in the back, that leaves the shoulders and upper back bare. Culottes (F) – a style of divided skirt, wearer is standing, the culottes look like a skirt with inverted pleats. Argyle (M) – a multicoloured diamond pattern popular with men in the 30s on woolen socks and sweaters. 1930s Female Underwear (F) – girdles. The Gathering Storm and Its Aftermath: 1940-1947 (the 40s) 1940-1947: Body Shape
Ideal Male Body Shape: return to youth, robust, athletic, trim. Ideal Female Body Shape: curvy, broad shoulders, small waist, shapely hips. 1940-1947: Clothes Terms Babushka ( F) – Russian peasant head scarf that is tied under the chin. Comes from the Russian word for grandmother. Jockey Shorts (M) – trim-fitting under shorts, manufactured by Jockey International. Sandorized (G) – process of comprehensive skrinkage, the fabric will not shrink more than a quarter inch. 1940-1947: Visuals Eisenhower Jacket (M/F) – waist-length jacket worn by General Dwight D. Eisenhower, military servicemen in WWII. Adopted for civilian wear. Pea Jacket (M) – double-breasted dark blue woolen jacket worn by sailors. Saddle Oxford (M/F) – low tied leather sports shoe popularized by teenagers, ‘saddle’ of black or brown across the vamp. The Cold War: 1948-1963 (the 50s) 1948-1963: Body Shape Ideal Male Body Shape: Military man, broad shouldered, broad chested. Shape #2: Younger, slender. Ideal Female Body Shape: Mature, voluptuous woman, ‘womanly’ Shape #2: slimmer, fewer curves, less traditional 1948-1963: Clothes Terms Cocktail Dress (F) – a party dress appropriate for wear in the late afternoon. Pedal Pushers (F) – close-fitting pants extending below the knee Sheath (F) – a tight-fitting dress. Sack Dress (F) – a straight dress with no shape, cut from shoulder to hem like a bag or sack. Stiletto (F) – a narrow heel with a center of steel to prevent the narrow heel from breaking. Permanent-press (G) – a term applied to a fabric or garment processed and heat-set so that a well-pressed appearance remains after washing. Polyester (G) – synthetic textile fiber. Easily washed, never wrinkled. Butch/Crew Cut (M) – a very short allover cut that left the hair in a brush, less than one inch, military look. Ivy League (M) – a suit with a jacket with natural-width shoulders, straight hanging, and has a center back bent and the trousers made without pleats and are straight hanging.
Palazzo Pants (F) – skirt-like pants that were worn for evening or other dressy events. Nehru Jacket (M) – fitted tunic with a low standing collar instead of lapels, named after Prime Minister Nehru of India who popularized the style. Bell-bottoms (M/F) – trousers with a flaring hem line that had been worn by sailors before being adapted for fashion. Jumpsuit (M/F) – work or play overalls with top and pants joined at the waist. Go-go boots (F) – high white fitted boots, named after the ‘go-go dancers’ who wore them. A Time of Excess: 1976-1990 (the 80s) 1976-1990: Body Shape Ideal Male Body Shape: slim, emphasis on the muscular, well defined body (‘pumped’) Ideal Female Body Shape: slim, emphasis on the athletic, ‘defined’ muscles 1976-1990: Clothes Terms Aerobic Suit (F) – an aerobics suit with tights, a leotard, leg warmers, tennis shoes, a sweatband. Stirrup Pants (F) – stretchy pants with an elasticized waist and an elasticized strap that fits underneath the instep. Tube Top (F) – elasticized sleeveless and strapless tank top. Mousse/Gel (G) – hair care products, mousse is a foam with less holding power than gel. Mullet (M/F) – a layered hairstyle worn short in the front and shoulder length in the back. 1976-1990: Visuals Legwarmers (F) – tubular knitted sock-like garment that extended from the top of the feet to below the knee. Associated with dancers. Birkenstocks (M/F) – casual sandal, generally cork-soled, in many colours. Popular with hippies and later teenagers. The End of the Century: 1990-1999 (the 90s) 1990-1999: Body Shape Ideal Male Body Shape: same as the 80s, new emphasis on ‘thin’ Ideal Female Body Shape: same as the 80s, new emphasis on ‘thin’ 1990-1999: Clothes Terms Platforms (F) – shoes with large thick soles, very similar to the look of the 60s and 70s. Spiral Perm (F) – long, spiral curls covering the head Thigh-highs (F) – stocking that went over the knee to the mid-thigh that were held up by elasticized tops, no garters were required.
Baggy Jeans (M/F) – a fad wearing of really oversized jeans. Flare Jeans (M/F) – jeans with hemlines that were similar to bell bottoms from the 60s and 70s. Piercings (M/F) – a fad of piercing the tongue, belly button, eyebrow, and nipple. 1990-1999: Visuals Doc Martens (M/F) – very popular footwear in the style of boots, expensive and very popular with teens. Cargo Pants (M/F) – a casual pant with a somewhat wide leg, with large patch pockets part way down the leg. Rachel Hair (M/F) – the distinctly shaped hair cut worn by Jennifer Aniston. ANTI-FASHION Five Categories of Anti-Fashion (1) Individuals who dissent Oppose dominant hierarchical structure [Hare Krishna] (2) Groups who resist social/cultural change Resist change of 19th^ century industrialization [Amish] (3) Minority Group Dis-identification Differentiates one’s subgroup from dominant [Afro hair style] (4) Individuals of isolation, alienation, low social definition [Punk] (5) Counterculture Insult Distance selves from and scandalize dominant culture [Beatnik, Hippies, Punk, Hip Hop] CHRONOLOGY OF EVENTS: 1930- 1933 Prohibition ends in the U.S. 1941 The Japanese attacked Pearl Harbor, Hawaii 1945 Atomic bomb dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki 1950 Senator Joseph McCarthy begins communist witch hunt 1957 Soviet satellite Sputnik launches Space Age (“Space Race” begins) 1963 John F. Kennedy assassinated 1969 Neil Armstrong is the first man on the Moon Woodstock 1972 Watergate Scandal 1973 U.S. pulls out of Vietnam 1978 First test-tube baby is born 1979 Nuclear accident at Three Mile Island 1986 Chernobyl nuclear accident 1993 World Trade Center is bombed 1995 Oklahoma City bombing 1999 Killing spree at Columbine High School
